In Flanders Fields …

German War Cemetery LangemarckYpern - towards Menin gateMenin GateMenin GateMenin GateMenin Gate
Menin GateIndia in Flanders FieldsIndia in Flanders Fields 1914 - 1918Hooge Crater War CemeteryHooge Crater CemeteryR E Grave Railway Wood & Liverpool Scottish Stone
Liverpool StoneRE Grave Railway Wood Cemetery177th Tunnel Company Royal EngineersSanctuary Wood Museum & TrenchesSanctuary Wood Museum & TrenchesSanctuary Wood Museum & Trenches
Trees from WWITrees from WWIHill 62 - Canadian War MemorialView from Hill 62Entrance to Langemarck War CemeteryGerman War Cemetery Langemarck

In Flanders Fields …, ein Album auf Flickr.

Pictures taken in summer 2012 during my visit of the World War I battlefields around Ypres.

In Flanders Fields

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved, and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

John McCrae
http://www.inflandersfields.be/en

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/In_Flanders_Fields

Posted in Battlefield Tours, Military History, War Cemetery | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Bastogne Historical Walk 2012

After 2008 and 2009, I visited this year again the Bastogne Historical Walk. It took place for the 35th time, as every December in Bastogne.

–> take a look at the 2013 walk

During the “Nuts Weekend” the following activities take place:

  • a walk (different distances) along parts of the former perimeter with reenactors along the way
  • exhibitions and a military vehicle parade in the Bastogne Barracks
  • parade and throwing of nuts in Bastogne
  • a reenactment show with two occupied villages and a “battle” with pyrotechnics in Recogne / Cobru

There is unfortunately no official website of the walk (anymore). You might google it or take a look at the official website of Bastogne to find the dates of next year and some additional information, especially the official flyer.

The walk

Official flyer

Historical-Walk-2012
Historical-walk-2012-2

Three different routes

Foto

Jeep

The walk starts at 08:00 in the morning at the Centre Sportif in Bastogne.
A registration for the walk is required and you receive a map, badge and certificate. Parking is free of charge and available in the surrounding streets.
The walk is offered in three different distances while the 20 km of 2012 took us about 5 hours with two (organized) snack stops (Glühwein, beer and Bratwurst) and some picture taking stops at the different reenactment locations.

Be prepared for muddy roads and bad weather.

Chateau de RolleyIMG_2296

Chateau de Rolley, an Allied HQ during the siege of Bastogne and a medical aid station in a barn at the chateau.

More pictures of this year – as well as earlier Bastogne Historical Walks – can be found here.

Post walk activities

Bastogne Barracks

Tank in Bastogne Barracks
After getting back to Bastogne we visited the Bastogne Baracks. This Belgian Army Camp is open for the public during the “Nuts Weekend” and offered this year many interesting attractions, especially the display and a parade of WWII vehicles including some tanks. Next to the organized the attractions especially the bar with great Belgian beer and the ability to sit down and relax was highly welcome!

Bastogne Barracks Plan

2012 attractions:

  • vehicle restoration center and exhibition hall
  • museum, former HQ of 101st Airborne
  • militaria fair

Activities in Bastogne

A parade is marching through town with regular US and Belgian troops as well as veterans and reenactors and stops at 15:00 at the town hall (Hotel de Ville) where the major throws the famous “nuts” from the balcony. This commemorates General McAuliffe’s reply to the Germany request for the surrender of the US troops in Bastogne:

“On December 22, 1944, through a party consisting of a major, a lieutenant, and two enlisted men under a flag of truce that entered the American lines southeast of Bastogne (occupied by Company F, 2nd Battalion, 327th Glider Infantry), General von Lüttwitz sent the following ultimatum to Gen. McAuliffe:

To the U.S.A. Commander of the encircled town of Bastogne.The fortune of war is changing. This time the U.S.A. forces in and near Bastogne have been encircled by strong German armored units. More German armored units have crossed the river Our near Ortheuville, have taken Marche and reached St. Hubert by passing through Hompre-Sibret-Tillet. Libramont is in German hands.There is only one possibility to save the encircled U.S.A. troops from total annihilation: that is the honorable surrender of the encircled town. In order to think it over a term of two hours will be granted beginning with the presentation of this note.

If this proposal should be rejected one German Artillery Corps and six heavy A. A. Battalions are ready to annihilate the U.S.A. troops in and near Bastogne. The order for firing will be given immediately after this two hours term.

All the serious civilian losses caused by this artillery fire would not correspond with the well-known American humanity.

The German Commander.

According to various accounts from those present, when McAuliffe was given the German message, he read it, crumpled it into a ball, threw it in a wastepaper basket, and muttered, “Aw, nuts”. The officers in McAuliffe’s command post were trying and failing to come up with suitable language for an official reply when Lt. Col. Harry Kinnard suggested that McAuliffe’s first response summed up the situation pretty well, and the others agreed. The official reply was typed and delivered by Colonel Joseph Harper, commanding the 327th Glider Infantry, to the German delegation. It was as follows:

To the German Commander.

NUTS!

The American Commander

The German major appeared confused and asked Harper what the message meant. Harper said, “In plain English? Go to hell.”[3] The choice of “Nuts!” rather than something earthier was typical for McAuliffe. Vincent Vicari, his personal aide at the time, recalled that “General Mac was the only general I ever knew who did not use profane language. ‘Nuts’ was part of his normal vocabulary.”[4]  from wikipedia

Reenactment camp

This year the little village of Cobru was “occupied” by (french speaking) German troops while Recogne was occupied by (french speaking) “US troops”.

We visited the two villages after the walk and were impressed by the many vehicles and “installations” like the medical aid station in the church of Recogne. The highlight was a “Panther“-remake built on top of a former T-55 tank which was brought over from Warsaw for this weekend to Cobru. Recogne was hosting a M-18 Hellcat tank.

PantherAmericans in Recogne
Medical Aid Station in a churchCasualties

The German War Cemetery in Recogne is as well worth to be visited.

Reenactment Battle Recogne & Cobru

Reenactment

A great reenactent battle took place on Sunday morning in Recogne and Cobru (see google map above). After French refugees and beaten GIs were fleeing from Cobru towards Recogne, German troops with a halftrack and the Panther tank were getting after them and taking Recogne. Finally the US troops recovered and took back Cobru. Though the weather was awful and parking difficult the show was a great spectacle.

My video

Video I found on youtube

“Official” video


Offcial flyer:

Recogne flyer

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In case you care about the weather … another yearly walk in the Bastogne area is the “Dead Man’s Ridge Walk“. The next walk will take place on Sunday, March 24th 2013 in Champs.

Further sights in the Bastogne / Ardennes area are described here.

More pictures of recent Bastogne Historical walks can be found here.

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Battle of the Bulge – Sights

This is an overview of different sights in the Ardennes related to the “Battle of the Bulge”.

I visited most of the places as part of “Bastogne Historical Walk” weekends.


The map only shows places I have visited. The “other museums” listed below are missing.

  • Blue: War Cemetery
  • Yellow: Place of interest
  • Green: Memorial
  • Red: Museum

Museums

Museums I visited

Military History Museum LuxemburgMuseum National d’Histoire Militaire
The national military history museum of Luxemburg focuses on the Battle of the Bulge with many original pieces and vehicles found after the war in Luxemburg.
Dioramas show different scenes of the Battle of the Bulge in general and Diekirch in particular.
Next to WWII topics the museum shows as well some items of recent activities (UN missions, etc.) of the Army of Luxemburg.
Large museum, audio guide available, small shop, limited parking

Baugnez 44 Histrical CenterBaugnez 44 Historical Center
This museum is one of the best and most recent exhibitions on the Battle of the Bulge. Many dioramas, sometimes with light and sound effects, guide you through the different stages of the battle. The focus of the museum is the “Malmedy Massacre” that happened just outside the building (see “memorials”).
Fantastic museum, audio guide available, huge shop, easy parking, historical site and monument around the corner


Bastogne Historical Center

As well a modern and interesting museum outside of Bastogne just below the huge Mardasson Memorial. The new Bastogne War Museum EXPERIENCE will open again on March 22, 2014.
As well a fantastic museum, audio guide available, huge shop, easy parking, historical sites and monument around the corner

Bastogne Barracks
These former barracks of the Belgium army are now part of the Belgian Royal Army Museum. It hosts the former HQ of General MacAuliffe of the 101st Airborne, a military vehicle restoration center and exhibition hall as well as several other exhibitions.
Bastogne Barracks Plan

This map was handed out during the “nuts weekend” in December 2012 and shows some additional events (e.g. “Bourse Militaria”) that are not available during the entire year.

101st Airborne Museum
This private museum is definitely worth visiting! It is located in a beautiful old building close to the Bastogne train station, that served as an officers casino for the Belgium army as well as a Headquarter of the German Army during WWII. The museum is only a few years old and the pictures, artefacts and dioramas are presented with great style. Next to the exhibition on 3 floors a small militaria shop can be found in the basement.

Unbenannt  UnbenanntUnbenannt  Unbenannt

Other museums

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Other articles on this blog that might be interesting to you:

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Memorials and places of interest

Foxholes near Foy
This is the location of the heavy Flak-88 barrage on the 101st position shown in episode 7 “Breaking Point” in “Band of Brothers“. I am not sure how “original” these foxholes are or whether they have been digged by reenactors in recent years. But it is anyways an interesting and moving original site.
Foxholes near Foy     Foxholes near Foy

101st PIR 506 E Company Airborne Memorial near Foy
Unbenannt  Unbenannt  Unbenannt  Unbenannt
T
his is a Memorial for the company portrayed by the HBO Mini Series “Band of Brothers”. The following soldiers that died in the Bastogne perimeter and are listed on the Memorial Are as well in the series:

17th Airborne Division Memorial in Flamierge
P1010356

Memorial Former American Cemetery near Foy

Mardasson Memorial near Bastogne

Malmedy Massacre Memorial in Baugnez / Malmedy Military Cemeteries I visited

War Cemeteries

Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial

A typical American cemetery: light, beautiful, heroic, polished like a golf course and embedded in a nice landscape. With the grave of Patton and several members of Band of Brothers.

5.076 soldiers buried.

Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial  Grave of Genneral George S Patton junior

German War Cemetery Sandweiler

A typical German war cemetery: dark, oak trees, flat ground, many names per cross.
10.913 soldiers buried.
Detailed information (in German) here.

Deutscher Soldatenfriedhof in Sandweiler, Luxemburg

German War Cemetery Recogne

Same layout as Sandweiler.
6.776 soldiers buried.
Detailed information (in German) here.

Deutscher Soldatenfriedhof Recogne

German War Cemetary Bitburg

A visit to this cemetary initiated the “Bitburg Controversy”: US-President Reagan and German Chancellor Kohl visited this cemetary that keeps as well graves of several men of the Waffen-SS:

“On 11 April 1985, then White House press secretary Larry Speakes informed the media of the planned visit to Bitburg. When asked who was buried at Kolmeshöhe, Speakes said he thought both American and German soldiers were there. Reporters soon discovered that no American servicemen were in the cemetery (in fact, the remains of all U.S. soldiers had long since been removed from German soil) and that Waffen-SS graves were located close to the proposed ceremony. When questioned, Bitburg Mayor Theo Hallet pointed out, all German military cemeteries were likely to contain at least a few SS graves. Such distinctions, though, failed to placate those who were opposed to Reagan’s visit on moral and political grounds. Decorations and memorials on the Waffen-SS graves were removed just prior to Reagan’s visit, and replaced right after.” (Wikipedia)

One of the popular German critics was German writer and Nobel Prize winner Günter Grass, later to be identified as a member of the Waffen-SS (10th SS Panzer Division Frundsberg) himself. He would have been buried at such a cemetary if he would have died in WW II.

Soldatenfriedhof Bitburg

Soldatenfriedhof Bitburg
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You can find more pictures on the Bastogne Historical Walk, nearby locations and events here.

Posted in Military History, Museum, War Cemetery | Tagged , , , , , | 7 Comments